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Last Updated: 31. Dezember 1998
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Sistine
Chapel
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Other Favorite Art Museums
Sistine Chapel
Rome, Italy
Kunstmuseum
Bern, Switzerland
Stedelijk Museum
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Wallraf-Richartz/Ludwig Museum
Cologne, Germany
Franz Marc Museum
Kochelsee, Germany
The Rijksmuseum
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Vatican Museum
Rome, Italy
Uffizi Gallery
Florence, Italy
The Bargello
Florence, Italy
St.Stefan's Church
Mainz, Germany

Sistine Chapel
Rome,
Italy
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If I ever traveled back to Italy, I would re-visit the Sistine Chapel. I would arrive at the Vatican Museum at opening time and go directly to the Sistine Chapel, so I could study Michelangelo's work. I would prefer to experience the Sistine Chapel without crowds of people.
It is a magnificent masterpiece. It is fascinating to see Michelangelo's creative process through the creation of such a large-scale project. Halfway through the project, when the scaffolding came down, Michelangelo realized that his compositions were not as dramatic as he wanted so, he changed his plans. In the scenes of the creation of Adam and the other creation scenes, Michelangelo added more emotional intensity and drama. His compositions were no longer stately, balanced and composed - like a proper Renaissance composition but much more powerful and emotional. Michelangelo is a great artist and it's fascinating to see his thought process. I only wish that I had more time to study the ceiling thoroughly.
Then after studying Michelangelo's work, I would return to study the modern religious art in the Vatican Museum. This art is located just prior to the Sistine Chapel.
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Kunstmuseum
Bern,
Switzerland
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This is one of my favorite modern art museums because it contains a large collection from the Paul Klee Foundation with over 2500 of Klee's work including many drawings, etchings, and paintings. Paul Klee is a superb draftsman. His drawings are small but wonderful to see. His etchings also exhibit his marvelous draftsmanship through depicting scenes from his home life and studio. Since I have 2 books on Paul Klee, I am familiar with many of his paintings by I have only seen a few of his actual paintings. It was delightful to see his work and then to walk around Bern and see and experience the place where he lived for a number of years. One's environment does seem to influence the content of one's work.
We also saw many etchings, woodcuts, and lithographs from 20th Century artists such as Kathe Kollowitz and Max Pechstein. It was wonderful to see Kathe Kollowitz's woodcuts and lithographs. There is much more detail in an actual print than a slide or print reproduction. I could see slight deviations in the blackness of the ink due to the roller marks or the pressure of the printing press. The character of Kathe Kollowitz's marks are strength but when viewing the actual print, it is possible to see the delicate quality of those marks and lines. There was a wonderful series by Max Pechstein based on the prayer, Our Father. Since Erika was memorizing this prayer, it was an excellent opportunity for her to see how an artist in a series of woodcuts could interpret a section of scripture.
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Stedelijk Museum
Amsterdam,
The Netherlands
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The Stedelijk Museum or the Municipal Museum is one of Europe's most important modern art museums. This museum specializes in modern art from the mid-19th century onwards. The De Stijl Movement is represented with Van Doesburg and Mondrian. Theodore van Doesburg and Piet Mondrian created the de Stijl Movement. This movement is based on Mondrian's ideas of an entirely nonrepresentational style that he called Neo-Plasticism. There were more works by Doesburg than Mondrian but it was interesting to see these two artists displayed in the same room.
Also, there are many paintings by Matisse, Chagall, and Malevitch. There were many interesting paintings by Marc Chagall. I only wish that some of these paintings were displayed at the Kunstmuseum. Erika had an admittance pin that showed Chagall's name, so we made a game of looking for a Chagall painting. Unfortunately, there was only one painting. This museum has many Malevitch painting and there is an entire room devoted to Malevitch. It is very interesting to see his development as an artist and to see his progression to abstract art in a very short period of time.
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Wallraf-Richartz/Ludwig Museum
Cologne,
Germany
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Most of our time in this museum was spent in the Ludwig Museum of Twentieth Century Art. There are many fine examples of German Expressionist art, especially a fine group of paintings by Kirchner, including his group portrait of the Die Brucke artists. It is much better to see actual paintings of the German Expressionist than a slide of the same painting because the colors are much more vivid in the actual painting - it is difficult to reproduce the shades of deep blue and purple in slide reproductions. I never understood why Kirchner chooses some of the odd color combinations, until I saw the actual painting. Sometimes he choose a pinkish hue to emphasize the outline of a row of trees along a horizon line or to emphasize the floor for the group portrait. It seemed out of place in the slide reproduction but in the actual painting, it was the perfect hue. He used the unusual colors to emphasize the emotional impact of the scene or the relationship between the artists.
There are three rooms devoted to Picasso, including a small room devoted to a series of lithographs. This series showed how he developed a composition of 2 nudes into a compelling but simple abstract composition of the same nudes. It was interesting to see his thought process and the composition development. It reminds me of an assignment from the Basic Design I course at Tyler School of Art. Picasso accomplished the transition from one view to another with much more finesse than any art student could.
Finally, there was a large exhibition space devoted to the Russian Constructionist painters. Some paintings by Malevitch (including "Red Square on a Black Background"), Lissitzky, Rodchenko, and Popova were displayed. Although the Russian Constructionist Movement was related to the Cub-Futurism Movement, it was fundamentally different because it was more concerned with the process of formation based on the materials and techniques rather than the spiritual aspects of the form. In this sense, many graphic designers in the 20th Century were influenced by this art.
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Franz Marc Museum
Kochelsee,
Germany
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Franz Marc lived in Kochelsee from 1908 through 1916, when he died in World War I at the age of 36. After visiting this area, it is clear to see that Franz Marc enjoyed the country life and why he enjoyed painting pictures of horses and other animals. Kochelsee is a small country town nested in the Bavarian Alps. It was a pleasure to find this little museum.
Franz Marc's father was also a painter, so there were a couple of paintings from his father hanging in the small gallery. It was interesting to compare the portraits that his father painted of his son to the portraits that Franz Marc painted of his father while he was dying.
Erika and I enjoyed playing a game called "How Type of Animal Do You See In This Painting?" It was very entertaining to her.
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The Rijksmuseum
Amsterdam,
The Netherlands
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My favorite paintings in the Rijksmusuem were painted by Vermeer. It was amazing to see the size of the actual paintings. They were much smaller than I imagined but there is so much detail in each square inch of the canvas.
Of course, there are many Rembrandt paintings at the Rijksmuseum including "The Night Watch" as well as some of his portraits. It was very interesting to compare the self-portrait at the age of seventeen to an older self-portrait. He was so secretive in the earlier painting - perhaps a little shy and unassuming, whereas, the one of the later self-portraits was presumptuous.
We visited this museum with an old friend from Philadelphia who studied at the same art school. Bob Phillips kept Erika entertained by asking her "Are you hungry yet?" whenever we entered a new room. She had a great time laughing and looking for pictures of cheese, bread, fruit, or even birds. Of course, it is easy to find still life paintings in the Rijksmuseum because of the great Dutch still life tradition. Before we left the museum, we stopped in the Museum Cafe for some ice cream for Erika, because she was hungry by the end of our visit. |

Museo Vaticano (Vatican Museum)
Rome,
Italy
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We visited the Egyptian art section because we started to tell Erika stories about ancient civilizations. It was fascinating to watch Erika as she soaked in the views of the hieroglyphic writing as well as the Egyptian mummies. Though the hieroglyphic writing is stiff and schematic, it is still beautiful in its simplicity.
Then we moved quickly to the ancient Roman sculptures including the Apollo Belvedere, Lacoon, and the Belvedere Torso. I think that Erika's favorite sculpture was a lion with an open mouth. She placed her hand in the mouth and then pretended that the lion bite her hand. I enjoyed seeing these famous sculptures for the first time. It is impossible to really see sculpture in slides.
On our way to "The School of Athens", we greatly enjoyed the Map Gallery. I think that Erika really enjoys trying to figure our maps and she loves to draw schematic views of her city, her apartment, or even the campground. So, Erika enjoyed looking at the maps to see where Florence is compared to Rome. I also enjoyed seeing the Tapestry Gallery. My favorite was the copy of Guido Reni's painting of the Slaughter of the Innocents. I still think that this painting is one of the most emotional paintings of the Renaissance.
Other favorite rooms included Raphael's room with "The Liberation of St. Peter". Because of the lighting, you must adjust your eyes before you can see the details of this painting. I also greatly enjoyed Fra Angelico's paintings. His treatment of line and form is most elegant. Then, we spent a lot of time in the room for "The School of Athens" but part of the painting was covered because they are doing work restoring that painting. For some reason, Erika loved to hear the explanation about the story of Plato and Aristotle as well finding artists such as Leonardo, Raphael, and Michelangelo.
Unfortunately, we were not able to see the modern religious art and we did not spent enough time in the Sistine Chapel. Perhaps next time, if there is a next time...
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Uffizi Gallery
Florence,
Italy
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My favorite painting in the Uffizi Gallery was "The Battle of San Romano". This painting is a great solution to the problem of understanding perspective because Uccello developed a grid system for creating a 3D space. It is still Uccello's treatment and attention to line that most fascinated me. There is very little chiaroscuro, only very clearly delineated shapes.
Of course, Botticelli paintings, "Allegory of Spring" and "The Birth of Venus" were wonderful too. It is clear to see why Michelangelo lamented that souls will never ascend to heaven unless the sight of Beauty lifts them there and Botticelli's nudes are beautiful enough to ascend to heaven.
Another favorite painting was Michelangelo's painting of "The Holy Family". This painting shows some of the techniques that Michelangelo used in the Sistine Chapel - monumental figures, dramatic angles, accentuated muscles, and bright clashing colors. All these elements create a dramatic tension that lacks the grace of Leonardo and Botticelli. This dramatic tension is what makes the Sistine Chapel so great and easy to read even though the ceiling is so high. |

The Bargello
Florence,
Italy
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There is an entire room devoted to Donatello in The Bargello. It was fascinating to really see the Niccoo de Uzzano bust, the statue of St. George, and Donatello's David. Donatello's David is much smaller than Michelangelo's David but it paved the way for Michelangelo to create a monumental statue of David.
Another favorite was Giambologna's Mercury. It is amazing to see how this sculpture could stand on a single toe - how can the sculpture be balanced? But there is a solid line of balance that runs from the toes to the nose to the fingertip.
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St. Stefan's Church
Mainz,
Germany
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St. Stefan's Church is a 14th Century Gothic church with a very impressive postwar embellishment. In 1976, the parish priest persuaded Marc Chagall, a great French Jewish painter, to make a series of stained glass windows. The theme is reconcilation, symbolizing reconcilation between France and Germany and between Christian and Jew. This windows were finished in November 1984, just a few months before Marc Chagall's death.
It is peaceful to contemplate the windows by sitting in one of the pews of the church. We sat there for a long time to enjoy the windows. Again, since the church is so dark, it takes a few moments for your eyes to adjust to the lighting. While we were looking at the windows, Erika and I discussed the meaning of some of the Old and New Testament stories.
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